(photo from "Fashion Memoir: Fortuny" by Delphine Desveaux)
Anyone who knows me, knows that I love and collect vintage clothing. My favourite era is the 1930's-1940's, but I still look at other decades as well. Recently, I was on the fabulous Vintage Textile web-site. Now this is a site is for serious collectors. They have the most fabulous collection of museum-worthy pieces. I was dribbling over a Fortuny Delphos gown in the most gorgeous cornflower blue (that is the pleated fabric Fortuny was famous for), when I came across another photo of the gown and a long velvet robe over it.
(photo from vintagetextile.com)
I had forgotten! Fortuny was also famous for his patterned fabrics. He was particularly fond of printed velvets. That set me off on a mini investigation to find out more as they are perfect inspiration for what can be achieved similarly with stencils.
(photo from "Fashion Memoir: Fortuny by Delphine Desveaux)
Mariano Fortuny was a man of many talents, but he is perhaps best known as a couturier. His clothing was quite advanced, adventurous and unconventional for the times (the best always is). His most famous clients included Isadora Duncan and Dorothy and Lillian Gish. He was most prolific from about 1910 until 1930. He drew influence from lots of different places, but was particularly fond of renaissance, medieval, classical greek, byzantine and ottoman styles and these are prevalent in his clothing designs and fabric patterns.
(photo above and 2 below from vintagetextile.com)
His style no doubt influenced others. Also on the Vintage Textile site are pieces by the designer Gallenga. They also look heavily stencilled.
Once I started reading up on Fortuny, I became inspired to create some stencilled velvet clothing myself a la Fortuny. He tended to favour metallic colours on velvets. I know that in some cases he used several shades of metallic colours to create an authentic antique look, but you can use less if you like. The pile of the velvet will automatically add subtle shades to a single colour.
(photo from "Fashion Memoir: Fortuny by Delphine Desveaux)
I am a big fan of lounging (makes me sound like a couch potato, but I can assure, there is a marked difference - one is good and the other is not). One of my favourite (and quick) items of clothing to sew is a pair of 1930's style wide leg lounging trousers. I have these in silk, satin and even good old plaid flannel and I live in them at home. As soon as I get in from work, a pair usually goes on. I have summer weight ones and winter warmth ones. So I thought I would make a velvet pair.
I had some white cotton velvet so dyed some lengths up in different colours. I decided to make the lounge trousers out of the jade green velvet. I used Dylon fabric dyes, but in the US, you can use Rit dyes for easy fabric dying at home. Once you try dying fabric, if you are anything like me, you won't stop. It is great fun and a fantastic way to revive something or simply change it. I chose our stencil DE82 from our Arts & Crafts range. Arts & Crafts is the appropriate era and also is a gothic revival style so I knew Fortuny would probably approve. I simply stencilled it in our Metallic Gold stencil paint. Then I sewed the fabric up into lounging trousers.
I also dyed a length a vibrant orange colour. I have stencilled it in an Art Nouveau pattern, DE234. This is less like the type of pattern Fortuny liked to use, but I was still heavily influenced by the look. Again, I used Metallic Gold paint and have added a bit of Brilliant Purple acrylic paint on the petals of the irises. I think I shall make this up into a short kimono style jacket when it is finished.
If you fancy reading more on Fortuny, then I recommend the Fashion Memoir Fortuny by Delphine Desveaux. It is short, but comprehensive and has some wonderful photos. If you fancy owning original Fortuny clothing or fabrics, then the only site to go to is Vintage Textile. And if you needed another excuse to visit Venice, then there is the Fortuny museum there that I am sure would be fascinating to anyone interested in fashion and pattern. And certainly, if you fancy creating some Fortuny style textiles yourself, well, you know where to get to get stencils. The most authentic ranges to "get the look" will be the Ottoman, Gothic Medieval & Tudor, and Arts & Crafts ranges.
Rachel.
ah! well done on the pants!
isn't that cape outrageous! chartreuse silk velvet, wow!
i stenciled a silk velvet poiret-cocoon coat recently, with a fortuny/orientalism inspired design, the silk was slippery and very hard to work with. cotton velvet is much easier to paint, and i'd really recommend stenciling before sewing the piece together whenever possible.
Posted by: Lynne Rutter | February 10, 2009 at 01:32 AM
Ohhhhh, I LOVE Fortuny fabrics and have for quite a few years. Your lounge pants are so nice -- you've inspired me to stencil some clothing. Fantastic post!
Posted by: Fauxology | February 10, 2009 at 03:59 AM
I adore Fortuny fabrics. They make you want to snuggle up inside them.
Posted by: Di Overton | February 13, 2009 at 08:16 AM
How do I place an order for one of those?? I seem to want to find more time for lounging than dying and stenciling fabric these days, LOL! Lovely!
Posted by: Melanie | February 13, 2009 at 07:22 PM